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09 Jan 2008
THE SECRETS OF THE ICE MASTER

Maurizio Gallo reveals the secrets of the new structure of the Daone Ice Master, designed not only for the competition, but also to "try" to help the evolution of this sport.

 

 

 

Daone 2008, what is the idea behind the design of the new competition structure for this edition of the Ice Master?
A great revolution in the design of the ice competition structures is developing in the Daone Valley. The artificial structure will

be the stage where the athletes will show their highest level of climbing with axes and crampons and, at the same time, will experience the new trends and limits of this sport.

Thus: extremely long and difficult routes, technical ability, physical strength. Is this the synthesis of the Ice Master "lab"?
It basically is. What we have always tried to offer in Daone is a specific research on the main aspects of this sport, looking for

its best chances of expression and evolution. In my opinion, this means stimulating the spectacular features of this discipline satisfying both the public and the athletes.

How does the ice-climbing combine with these spectacular aspects?
This structure has been designed in order to have more difficult and longer routes; the idea is to combine "boulder" spaces

with a track where the length is more than in the previous competitions. Four years ago, during the first edition of the First Cup, the length was max 10 m, even if the structure was steeper. We have also tried to focus on the trends of the climbing on natural ground, with longer routes and difficult spaces with different technical aspects.

This is without a doubt much more spectacular for the public, who can get excited watching the athletes climbing that high.

Can you describe this new ice climbing structure?
The structure is divided in three parts: a central body, with sheer walls which join the wide roof, where there are new slightly sheer panels and two lateral towers which show all the possible climbing tracks: from dry tooling to total dry, where basically there is no ice, but real rock grips.

All the possible climbing terrain, are included... Needless to say that build this structure has required a hard effort...
Yes, it definitely has. Not only for the manpower, but also for the creativity required. Placido Corradi, for instance, has created a new method for building 26 m walls this year. That is incredible, I think something like this has never been seen or built before.

Can you describe the right side of the structure?
The right (or central) part has got these two high towers, which have a 30° inclination and end with two sheer panels.

They can be modified easily with some interchangeable parts, which will be applied before every performance, forcing the athletes to face new difficult routes, with the clock running and the arms stiffing.

Are you turning to total dry?
In the last three years dry, tooling has changed. Starting from a small portion of rock and a large amount of ice, we have

changed to structures with larger rocky sections. This is part of the evolution of this sport.

What could be the best way to handle all this?
The ice climbing has become a very special show thanks to the equipment used. Actually, the new generation axes and crampons allow the performance of very special and new movements and positions. The athletes have to be creative, they

can't simply count on their strength. With the new structure, the Ice Master is trying to follow this message and to propose a further evolution. I think that it is important to look for difficulty through improved climbing techniques on every ground and

better athletic training.

Is it a gamble for Daone and its seventh Ice Master?
We have tried to create a very difficult and innovative round, raising the level of difficulty and, at the same time, keeping the spectacular aspects of the competition. It will be a new incitement for the athletes as well, I'm sure of that.

This mix of difficulty and show, together with the creativity of the athletes are the same features that have always characterized

the Ice Master. This is the most entertaining aspect of the competition, as much as the essence of every climbing sport.
Sure will be very intense spectacle. Who will be there.. will see!

 

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